Field Notes, Day 2

Cape Coast - Elmina Castle, Global Mamas

Today, we drove three hours from Osu to the Cape Coast in order to see Elmina Castle. While sitting in the car we watched the landscape change. The tall building and markets in Osu turned into fields with small half-built houses and bare foundations alongside huge mansion-like homes. Then, as sight of the ocean line appeared we began seeing big boats moored as well as many goats and chickens. The air smelled like fresh fish as we walked across a bridge to Elmina Castle. Hawkers approached us as we walked towards the entrance and I was amazed by the sundial and huge outer- plus inner-ring moats embracing the structure’s thick white walls. As we heard the story of Elmina from our guide Philip, it was incredibly visceral to hear about the atrocities that occurred to the slaves housed at Elmina while walking into the spaces where they were forced to sleep and violated. The women’s spaces still smelled rank from years of torture that occurred there.

The small doorways in the men’s spaces were small and dark, visitors had to bend uncomfortably and watch their heads - it’s hard to imagine having to make that climb hungry, disoriented and in chains. These areas contrasted starkly with the guards chambers, placed above the dungeons with beautiful windows and walls painted a bright yellow. It looked lovely, but it was painful to think of the disparity and injustice - in this pretty room, women were raped and below those floors men were left to lie in their own vomit and waste.

We walked up onto the roof of Elmina and saw the canons aimed at the coast. We could see all the colors of the town, hear the sounds of people living, and smell the fish, the food, and the other animals. It was a beautiful view, but we knew about the horrible things that had happened there. Words and emotions tend to stick with me more than visuals. After this trip, I know I’ll always remember that smell because it made me feel sick to my stomach, and I’ll always remember the words etched onto the white memorial plaque at the exit of Elmina - because it gave me hope. “In Everlasting Memory// Of the anguish of our ancestors// May those who died res in piece// May those who return find their roots// May humanity never again perpetrate// Such injustice against humanity// We the living vow to uphold this. Afterwards we drove through the Cape Coast once more. The shops, government buildings, homes, and ornate structures took on greater meaning than they did upon first look. We saw the influence of colonizers on the people, on their words, on their names, on their homes - the way they still manage to dictate Africa and Africans role in the world. We now understood that this beautiful place had a dark history, but that didn’t mean that it was now a dark place. That doesn’t mean that this soil is tainted. Humans commit atrocities and feel pain, but somehow - good or bad - we all manage to go on.

Dr. Hart ended the day by showing us Global Mama’s a re-sale store in Osu. We spent all day seeing the white of the castle, the bright colors of the fabric in the store seemed especially vibrant. We learned about an effort to create sustainable and locally-made wear that benefits both the environment and the people. We saw present efforts by Ghanaians to provide for themselves independently and righteously.