Field Notes, Day 5

Craft Market, Meltwater Entrepreneurial School of Technology (MEST), Ghanaian Dance Ensemble, Fantasy Coffins - Kane Kwei, Republic Bar Highlife Performance - Ebo Taylor

We awoke early in the morning to visit a Craft Market in Accra. There we learned the art of bargaining with Ghanaians. Basically, staying strong in order to avoid getting swindled. Apezi helped a lot. The craft market consisted of stalls each containing a huge collection of souvenirs meant for tourist. The same kinds of stuff was in each small shop, and all of the vendors would call on us directly to try to persuade us to peruse their collection. Some stalls were more cavernous than others, I remember finding one with a fan and standing there until the vender came by. At that point, I had to go in order to avoid having the buy something. However, I did come away with a painting and and some bracelets. Afterwards we drove to the Meltwater Entrepreneurial School of Technology or MEST and met with Raquel Wilson, a teacher from the United States who was now living in Senegal. Dr. Hart spoke to her class about her work researching and mapping the Tro-Tro system. Students posed questions to Dr. Hart about the different features of the map, histories of landmark and downloadable directions/routes, while discussion the expansion of digital humanities in Ghana. Dr. Hart spoke about the work of Ms. TaxiGhana and the importance of facilitating digital spaces for Ghanaians to comment upon and review their transportations systems. These processes and collaborative functions could possible help further develop the connectivity and quality of the Ghanaian Tro-Tro service in the future. Afterwards we were given the time to connect with the students, or “entrepreneurs-in-training,” they told us about their individual projects which were currently in the market research stages. Their passion and desire got me thinking about the words Kufuor said to us just two days before. He mentioned “capitalism with a face.” If I’m being honest, I didn’t exactly know what he meant what he said those words. Yet, at MEST, looking at all of these young people with business pitches and models, I think these are the faces he was talking about. Ghanaian businesses, African businesses run by the people for the benefit of their people. I was able to meet a woman named Stella who told me about a political app she was working on developing in order to de-clutter social media and facilitate better informed young Africans. She told me that she has realized that the reason so many young people are not engaged in politics is because they see politics as something that is boring, confusing, and frustrating. Often people resort to complaining about politics on social media, without seeking out the knowledge to understand the specific political mechanisms or institutions they could reach out to or learn more about in order to alleviate their concerns. She wants to create an app that would act as a political database and forum. Something that all people can download in order to learn the dates of elections and the stances/backgrounds of all candidates running, while offering a specific place for people to engage in productive political discussion. I was incredibly inspired while talking to Stella about political engagement. She and I both want to help people our age understand that we can use politics as a tool as opposed to merely feeling bogged down by its consequences. I think that people like her are hopeful in the face of the systems and discussions that often cause many people to disengage. She wants to bring people back to the conversation, to empower them. I thought it was wonderful, I thought that her passion was infectious, and I hope that her app gains popularity. I agreed with her, even in the United States I see so many people who feel shut off by politics and stifled by their country’s political history. I wonder what would happen if people took the time to see politics as something that can be used as a tool, if only they took the time to understand its intricacies. Apps or methods like the ones that Stella wants to help employ may translate the complexities of politics for those who currently feel overwhelmed and disengaged by it.

After MEST, we traveled to see the Ghanaian Dance Ensemble. Their performance was a combination of dances and music from different parts/ethnic groups in Ghana. We were then invited to join the dancers, we joined in the circle and mimicked their moves. It was interesting to later learn about the contexts for each of the dances based on the groups they come from. We then drove to see the Kane Kwei fantasy coffins, a family that was known for creating coffins that would specially commemorate loved ones who had passed. There were coffins shaped like hammers, like beetles, etc. Dr. Hart and Apezi told us about how Ghanaian funerals were often based on honoring the best aspects of the person who passed away. Sometimes the dead would be positioned doing tasks that honored their lives. Drivers would be seated as if they were working and musicians were posed with their instruments. These coffins are a form of that kind of honor, Apezi told us that if he were to pass away, his coffin would be shaped like a drum.

Later that night, we went to the Republic Bar in order to witness a special performance of Highlife music by the legendary performer Ebo Taylor. It was one thing to learn about highlife music from Nate Plageman’s book, but another to actually hear the sounds and feel the vibe in person. Ebo Taylor came out and sang with the band, foreigners joined with Ghanaians danced and naturally, we joined in as well.